Most mountains are motivating, but Everest is the defining factor of what man can do. WILD YAK EXPEDITIONS has long-standing experience of over twelve years in the field of guiding climbers in the Himalayas and has also successfully guided members to the summit of Everest many times. We know that, in our group, we follow the discipline strictly, not just to get to the top, but also to ensure the safety of all group members and the WILD YAK team
Everest is not merely a peak; it is a complex high-altitude area where the selection of Everest climbing routes is essential, with an elevation of 8,848.86 metres. The different climbing routes pose completely different technical challenges, weather conditions, and goal-related risks. Due to our long-term experience as guides on the south and the north sides, we have realised that the correct approach as well as the correct guiding team is no less significant than physical strength itself.
Introduction of Mount Everest and Its Climbing Sides
Mount Everest is situated between Nepal and Tibet:
- South Side (Nepal)
- North Side (Tibet)
The four climbing routes of Everest
South Col Route (the first Everest climb route), Nepal: Sir Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary became the first to reach the top of Everest via the South Col in 1953. This climbing route is the historic and most famous climbing route for Everest. Following this, there were numerous attempts by the mountaineers with varying success to reach Mount Everest.
North Ridge Route (Tibet/China): The first ascent of Mount Everest from the North Ridge (Tibet/China) side was achieved by a Chinese expedition in 1960 via the North Col and North Ridge route. This is the second most used route to climb Everest after the South Col Ridge, Nepal.
West Ridge Route (Nepal): This route is climbed by a very small number of people to date. The first ascent of Everest via the West Ridge was achieved by an American Expedition in 1963, led by Thomas Hornbien and Willie Unsoeld. There is a very famous section in this route called the Hornbein Couloir, which was named after the first ascent of Thomas Hornbein. Hornbien couloir was recently highlighted when American Skier Jim Morrison skied the narrow line.
Kangshung Face Route (East Face – Tibet/China): The Kangshung face is the eastern face of the mount Everest, which rises almost 3000 metres vertically, making it one of the biggest mountain faces (wall) in the Himalaya. The first successful summit was done in 1983, which happened to be the most highlighted climb of the 80s.
A choice between these Everest climbing routes is not a geographical one. We take climbers out based on their level of experience, risk-tolerance, and individual objectives. Also It will be determined by technical skills, endurance, and expertise in logistics planning.
- South Col Route (Nepal Side)
The South Col Route is the most utilised route among the Everest climbing routes and is regarded as one of the most successful.
Route Overview
- Fly into Lukla (2,860m)
- Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m)
- Climb through Khumbu Glacier to Camp-I, II, III, and South Col (Camp-IV).
- Summit push via the South Col, Balcony, South summit, and summit
Major Challenges
i. Khumbu Icefall
One of the most dangerous parts is because of the ice blocks’ instability and profound crevasses.
ii. Western Cwm
A wide, smooth valley which turns into a solar oven. It is a very bright sun, and it reflects on the snow to bring about dehydration and exhaustion.
iii. Lhotse Face
The Lhotse wall of hard blue ice is a steep slope of 40-50 degrees and imposing and demanding that the climbers climb it using fixed ropes and take around 1200 meters climb toreach the camp-III and further to the South Col.
iv. Death Zone
At altitudes above 8,000 metres, the air pressure is so low that the human body starts to degenerate. Above South Col, the oxygen level in the air is only 33% of that at sea level. The battle is over every decision.
We usually advise the South Col Route to mountaineers with previous experience at altitudes of 6,000m to 7,000m. Its developed infrastructure and fixed ropes increase the chance of success, but with the combination of the right acclimatization and support of the expert climbing Sherpa Guide. Climbers are led up the mountain by our Sherpa guides, who assist them through all the stages, all the way to the summit, without any difficulties of ascending through the Khumbu Icefall and the Lhotse Face.
- North Ridge Route
The North Ridge Route starts from Tibet; it’s also the standard route used by mountaineers after the South Col route. and is known for harsher weather conditions and greater technical difficulty, basically from Camp-IV to.
Route Overview
- Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,150m)
- Hike to Advanced Base Camp (6,400m)
- North Col ascent
- Summit via Northeast Ridge
Major Challenges
- Stronger Winds
The North side is more exposed to the jet stream, making summit windows unpredictable.
- Longer Summit Day
The final push is significantly longer and technically harder than on the South side.
III. Second Step
The second step at an altitude of 8,610 meters is the bottleneck on Everest North, approximately 30 meters high, with ladders in the steep sections. Often, traffic jams form, and sometimes climbers have to wait hours in these sections.
The North Ridge requires good technical climbing skills and high cold tolerance. Our WILD YAK guides are experienced on this route and are responsible for oxygen management and strategy with the climbers. Co-founder of WILD YAK EXPEDITIONS, Norbu Sherpa has climbed this route 4 times and led more than 30 climbers to the summit. For technical climbers who prefer a more authentic mountaineering experience rather than a crowded summit, this route offers a challenging and rewarding climb with the right preparation and guidance.
- West Ridge Route (Highly Technical)
The West Ridge is considered one of the hardest Everest climbing routes, which was first successfully climbed in 1963 by an American group. It is steep rock and ice and has not seen many commercial attempts.
- Very technical climbing
- High avalanche exposure
- Rarely attempted today
- Suitable only for elite mountaineers
The West Ridge is not for guided commercial climbers. Nevertheless, if elite teams require a real alpinist challenge, WILD YAK EXPEDITIONS has the experience to facilitate such expeditions. This path is the highest achievement of technical climbing on Everest.
- Kangshung Face (Extreme)
The Kangshung face on the eastern side of Tibet is hardly ascended because it is very difficult and remote.
- Logistically complex and remote
- Avalanche-prone slopes
- Minimal commercial support
- Requires full expedition planning
- More than 3000 meters high, the face of the wall of Kangshung.
This is the wild part of Everest, where the objective danger and loneliness meet. It should only be tried by well-trained teams that are independent. The logistical capacity of our team is capable of sustaining such expeditions, but we stress that this is the route of the most accomplished climbers in the world.
The Death Zone: Where Human Limits Are Tested
The Death Zone is above 8,000 metres, and the deficit of oxygen results in acute degeneration of the human body.
Oxygen Comparison
| Altitude | Oxygen Availability |
| Sea Level | 100% |
| 5,364m (Everest Base Camp) | Approx. 50% |
| 8,000m+ (Death Zone) | Approx. 33% |
In this zone:
- Above 8000 meters, the human body slowly begins to die.
- Making thinking and decisions is distorted.
- The risks of High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) are high.
- The risk of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) is high
- Frostbite and weariness are the order of the day.
- The survival time in the absence of supplemental oxygen is brief.
We take stringent oxygen policies, constant observation of climbers’ health, monitoring of oxygen intake, and expert decision support. Our WILD YAK expert and experienced guides understand when to proceed and when to retreat since we should always place safety first.
Comparison of the Main Everest Climbing Routes
| Route | Starting Side | Technical Level | Main Challenge | Success Rate | Suitable For |
| South Col | Nepal | Difficult | Khumbu Icefall & Lhotse Face | 50–60% | Strong endurance climbers |
| North Ridge | Tibet | Difficult | Second step and exposed ridge sections | 30–40% | Technical climbers |
| West Ridge | Nepal | Very Difficult | Rock & ice technical climbing | 10–15% | Elite alpinists |
| Kangshung Face | Tibet | Extremely Difficult | Avalanche & remote terrain | <5% | Highly experienced expedition teams |
Choosing the Right Route
To select Everest climbing routes, one must take into consideration:
- Previous experience in 7,000m and above climbing.
- Ice-climbing and rock climbing skills.
- Physical endurance
- Mental resilience
- Genuine and experienced logistics and expedition organiser.
Our crew evaluates the experience, skills, and objectives of the climbers and advises them on the best routes for Everest. We offer expert advice and detailed safety measures in addition to tailor-made expedition planning.
The South Col route is the most systematic Everest routes for most climbers. The second standard route is from the North side of Tibet, which WILD YAK EXPEDITIONS is organising. However, when we talk of highly technical experts, we are able to facilitate more extreme and difficult ascents from the West Ridge or Khangshung Face.
Conclusion
Climbing Everest is not just about reaching 8,848.86 metres; rather, it is a test of human endurance against the shifting glaciers, rocky steps, and the Death Zone, which lacks oxygen. Each Everest routes tell a different story of danger, life, and achievement.
In the case of WILD YAK EXPEDITIONS, climbers do not just go to Everest; they experience it safely, in a friendly, professional manner, with guides who are well familiar with the mountain and its surroundings. We organise all our 8000 meters expedition with an ultra-small group of 4 to 6 members, with a 1:1 member-to-Sherpa guide ratio and for the Everest South Col route, 1 member is guided by 2 climbing Sherpas.
Wondering What It Really Costs to Climb Everest? See the Full Cost Breakdown!
FAQs
There is no safe route on Everest; every route has serious risks. However, Everest from the North Tibet/China side is considered technically safer but with harsh weather.
The South Col route is the standard and most used route, known as one of the safest Everest climbing routes because of its upgraded infrastructure.
Hornbein Couloir is a very technical ice and rock couloir on the North face of Everest, accessible only to the elite. It is associated with the West Ridge variation. Recently it was in highlight because of skiing the couloir.
Yes, you should carry! As you are in the deathzone and your body is slowly dying. Even the most experienced and strongest climber cannot adapt to Deadzone for long periods.
Supplemental oxygen is used by most climbers, particularly in the South Col and the North Ridge.
Experienced climbers can ascend such technical routes as West Ridge or Hornbein Couloir with little oxygen. So carrying oxygen is preferred on every route.
The climb of Everest would require at least 40 to 45 Days. But to be more flexible about the weather window, 55 to 60 days is an ideal time. The day also depends on the physical condition and past experience in mountain climbing.
Until Camp-III, the North ridge is less difficult than the South. Besides, sometimes strong western winds. North Ridge has some technical sections, especially above 8000 meters, including the Second Step and vertical fall ridge, and also the days spent above 8000 meters are longer, which makes it bit harder.
