Introduction
Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak at 8,848.86 meters (29,031 feet), offers two primary Everest routes: the South Col (Nepal) and the North Col (Tibet). While both lead to the same summit, they differ significantly in technical difficulty, cost, permit logistics, and overall climbing experience. In this guide, we break down everything you need to know to choose the right route for your Everest expedition.
1. Overview of the Two Everest Routes
South Col Route (Nepal)
Starting Point: Lukla, Nepal
Key Features
- Popular choice, with approximately 70% of climbers opting for the South Col.
- Requires crossing the Khumbu Icefall, one of the most treacherous sections on Everest.
- Well-developed Base Camp infrastructure, including medical tents and limited Wi-Fi access.
Best For: Climbers who value established infrastructure, social interaction, and more straightforward rescue options.
North Col Route (Tibet)
Starting Point: Tingri or Lhasa, Tibet
Key Features
- Generally, fewer climbers, offering a more solitary or adventurous experience.
- Avoids the Khumbu Icefall but includes steep snow slopes on the North Col.
- Base Camp is higher in altitude (around 5,150 meters), leading to quicker acclimatization challenges.
Best For: Climbers seeking less crowded conditions, a quieter environment, and a slightly lower permit fee.
2. Key Differences Between South Col and North Col
Technical Difficulty
| Factor | South Col (Nepal) | North Col (Tibet) |
| Icefall Risk | High (Khumbu icefall with crevasses) | None |
| Summit Day Duration | 12-16 hours | 16-20 hours |
| Acclimatization Approach | Gradual (Namche Bazar Route) | Higher Base Camp Altitude, Quicker ascent. |
South Col vs. North Col Difficulty: The South Col route involves ladder crossings and serac dodging in the Khumbu Icefall, while the North Col route avoids this hazard but requires more stamina on summit day and a steeper climb on the Northeast Ridge.
Cost Comparison
- South Col (Nepal): Typically $40,000–$100,000+ (includes permit fees, logistics, and expedition support).
- North Col (Tibet): Generally $35,000–$85,000+ (lower permit costs but higher transportation and logistical expenses).
Why the Difference?
- Nepal’s permit fees are $15,000 per climber, while Tibet’s are around $9,800.
- The South Col route often features more luxury services (heated dining tents, higher-end food supplies).
Permit Logistics
- South Col (Nepal): Overseen by Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism, requiring a Sagarmatha National Park permit and liaison officer.
- North Col (Tibet): Regulated by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA), with additional requirements like a Tibetan travel visa and military clearance.
Pro Tip: Nepal’s permit process is more streamlined, whereas Tibet’s can be stricter, sometimes subject to last-minute changes or suspensions.
Success Rates
- South Col: Approximately 65%, partly due to more established rescue infrastructure and better weather forecasting.
- North Col: Roughly 55%, often affected by stronger winds and a longer summit push.
3. Pros and Cons of Each Route
South Col (Nepal) Advantages
- Better Rescue Options: Helicopter evacuations can reach Base Camp quickly.
- Rich Cultural Experience: Trekking through Sherpa villages (Namche Bazaar, Tengboche).
- Extensive Support: Larger expedition teams, experienced Sherpa guides, and on-site medical care.
South Col Disadvantages
- Khumbu Icefall: Notoriously dangerous, contributing to higher risk in the early stages.
- Crowds: Potential bottlenecks at key points like the Hillary Step and during summit windows.
North Col (Tibet) Advantages
- Fewer Climbers: Less congestion, reducing wait times on summit day.
- No Khumbu Icefall: Eliminates one of Everest’s most hazardous sections.
North Col Disadvantages
- Harsher Weather: The Tibetan Plateau can experience stronger winds and colder conditions.
- Limited Infrastructure: Fewer established camps, limited medical facilities, and no helicopter rescues.
4. Which Route Should You Choose?
Choose South Col If…
- You are a first-time Everest climber seeking a route with a proven support network.
- You value a more social environment and are comfortable with crowds.
- You want helicopter rescue availability in case of emergencies.
Choose North Col If…
- You have high-altitude climbing experience and prefer fewer crowds.
- You want to avoid the Khumbu Icefall.
- You can handle stricter permit regulations and longer summit pushes.
5. Training Tips for Both Routes
- South Col Focus: Practice ladder crossings and glacier travel skills for the Khumbu Icefall.
- North Col Focus: Build endurance for extended summit days (16–20 hours) and harsher winds.
- Universal Preparation: Strengthen cardiovascular fitness, schedule altitude simulation training, and invest in high-quality cold-weather gear.
For an in-depth guide on preparing for Everest, see our Three Most Effective ways to prepare for Everest Expeditions.
Conclusion
Deciding between the South Col (Nepal) and North Col (Tibet) routes comes down to experience level, budget, and risk tolerance. The South Col boasts established camps, richer cultural immersion, and helicopter rescues, but also faces heavier traffic and the notorious Khumbu Icefall. Meanwhile, the North Col appeals to climbers seeking fewer crowds and no icefall crossings, though they must contend with stricter regulations and harsher conditions.
Ready to start your Everest journey?
- Consult our Everest Experts for personalized route advice and expedition planning.
- Explore our Everest Expedition Packages for guided options on both routes.
6. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- Which route is safer for climbing Everest?
South Col offers more rescue options but includes the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. North Col avoids the Icefall but has tougher weather and longer summit days. - Is the North Col route cheaper than the South Col route?
Slightly, due to lower permit fees. However, logistics and transportation in Tibet can offset these savings. - Can a first-time Everest climber choose the North Col route?
Yes, but most novices prefer the South Col for better infrastructure and rescue capabilities. - How long does it take to climb Everest from each route?
Expeditions typically last 45 to 60 days, including acclimatization. Summit pushes vary: 12–16 hours (South Col) vs. 16–20 hours (North Col).
