Mount Everest is the highest peak in the world, with a height of 8,848.86 metres/29,031 feet, and the two main routes of Everest are the South Col (Nepal) and the North Col (Tibet). The two reach the same peak, but differ widely in the technical difficulty, the cost, and the ability to enter the logistical entrance, and overall climbing experience. In this guide, we break down all that you should know when selecting the right route to take to the Everest expedition.
1. Overview of the Two Everest Routes
South Col Route (Nepal)
Starting Point: Kathmandu > Lukla, Nepal
Key Features
- Popular choice, on which approximately 70% of the climbers have used the South Col.
- It entails the Khumbu Icefall, which is one of the most dangerous locations on the mountain.
- Good Base Camp facilities and tents with medical and limited Wi-Fi services.
Best for: Climbers who appreciate existing infrastructure, social interaction, and less complex rescue choices.
North Col Route (Tibet)
Meeting Point: Lhasa or Tingri, Tibet
Key Features
- Smaller groups of climbers have more exotic or isolated experiences most of the time.
- Evades Khumbu Icefall and is surrounded by steep snow slopes on North facing.
- The presence of a higher elevation will also make it more difficult to adjust to the absence of oxygen in the Base Camp, as it is approximately 5,150 metres in height.
Best for: Climbers who prefer to be in the less frequented parts, in a quieter setting, and are subject to a slightly lower charge of permit fee.
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2. Key Differences Between South Col and North Col
Technical Difficulty
| Factor | South Col (Nepal) | North Col (Tibet) |
| Icefall Risk | High (Khumbu icefall with crevasses) | Sometimes avalanche risk to the North Col at 7000 meters |
| Summit Day Duration | 12-16 hours | 16-20 hours |
| Acclimatization Approach | Gradual (Namche Bazar Route) | Higher Base Camp Altitude, Quicker ascent |
| Weather | More snow and avalanches | Strong South-West Wind Jet-stream winds |
| Rescue options | Longline helicopter rescue til the altitude of 7300 meters | Helicopter rescue is almost Nil |
| Technical Obstacles | Former Hillary step and ridge with traffic (no more the rock) | Second Step and the traffic in it sometimes |
South Col vs. North Col Difficulty:
The ladder crossings and serac avoidances at the Khumbu Icefall on the South Col trail do not exist as such and are compensated with greater stamina on summit day and the steeper Northeast Ridge on the North Col.
Cost Comparison
- South Col (Nepal): Typically starts from $40,000 and can go up to $100,000+, which includes permit fees, logistics, and expedition support.
- North Col (Tibet): Generally starting from $35,000 and can go up to $85,000+, which has lower permit costs but higher transportation and logistical expenses.
Why the Difference?
- The charges of permit fee in Nepal amount to $15,000 per head of a climber and, in Tibet, about $9,800.
- The South Col trail tends to have more luxurious services (heated dining tents, more luxurious food supplies).
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Permit Logistics
- South Col (Nepal): This is under the management of the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, where a permit to Sagarmatha National Park and a liaison officer should be negotiated.
- North Col (Tibet): This is regulated by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA); besides, it needs a Tibetan travel visa and military clearance as well.
Pro Tip: The permit process for Nepal can be smoother than that of Tibet. Last-minute changes or suspensions can occur while applying for the permit through Tibet.
Success Rates
- South Col: It has to do with the relatively more developed rescue infrastructure and improved weather forecasting, which contributes about 65%.
- North Col: Approximately 55%, and this is usually done with stronger winds and a longer summit push.
3. Pros and Cons of Each Route
South Col (Nepal) Advantages
- More Preferred rescue methods: Base Camp can be reached quite fast by helicopter evacuations.
- Culture Boost: Exploring and sightseeing the villages of the Sherpa people (Namche Bazaar, Tengboche).
- Everything included: A large group of climbers, highly qualified Sherpa Guides, and medical assistance could easily be found.
South Col Disadvantages
- Khumbu Icefall: This is widely known to be very risky, hence increased risk at the initial levels.
- Crowds: Possible congestion at strategic locations such as the Hillary step and summit windows.
North Col (Tibet) Advantages
- Fewer Climbers: Fewer climbers and less waiting on summit day.
- No Icefall of Khumbu: Eliminates one of the most dangerous places on Everest.
North Col Disadvantages
- Cold Weather: The weather on the Tibetan Plateau is colder and windier.
- Scarcity of Infrastructure: The camps are not properly developed, medical equipment is not available, and helicopter rescue is not possible.
4. Which is the Right Route to Take?
Choose South Col If…
- You are a first-time climber on Everest who is looking to pursue a route that is well established.
- You appreciate social interaction and are comfortable with a human crowd.
- You would like to have helicopter rescue services in case of emergencies.
Choose North Col If…
- You are a high-altitude climber and do not want as many people around.
- You do not want to experience the Khumbu Icefall.
- You will be able to manage strict regulations on permits and a prolonged summit push.
5. Training Tips for Both Routes
- South Col Focus: Crossing of ladders and travelling on glaciers to the Khumbu Icefall.
- North Col Focus: Train to be near-summit endurance (16-20 hours) and heavier winds.
- Universal Preparation: Train cardiovascular fitness, conduct altitude simulation training, and invest in cold-weather equipment of high quality.
To have a detailed guide on how to prepare for Everest, refer to our Three Most Effective Ways to Prepare for Everest Expeditions.
Conclusion
Experience, cost, and risk tolerance are the factors to determine whether to go to the South Col (Nepal) or the North Col (Tibet). The South Col has been developed very well in infrastructure, it has a deeper cultural experience, a helicopter rescue facility and flexibility but is more trafficked with the notorious Khumbu Icefall. Meanwhile, the North Col also appeals to the climbers who do not wish to be among the crowd and icefall crossings but must live with tougher conditions and face stiffer regulations.
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- Personal route advice and expedition planning: Our Wild Yak Expedition Experts will advise you on the route to take.
- Explore our Everest Expedition Packages to have guided packages on both routes.
FAQs
South Col has more flexibility and rescue resources, but it also includes the risky Khumbu Icefall. North Col does not pass through the Icefall, and the climbing stress is also less. For example, you do not need to start super early to go to the higher camps, but the weather is worse, the time to reach the top is longer, and another technical obstacle is a second-step vertical rock wall with a ladder.
Yes, slightly, because of lower permit charges. Nevertheless, these savings can be offset by logistics and transportation costs in Tibet. Sometimes, some unexpected extra pay might occur. But the facilities are much higher on the South-Col side. Example: good lodges, good food, internet, phone reception at base camp, rescue facilities, and flexibility to change the itinerary or do something at the last moment.
Yes, but other beginners prefer the South Col because of better infrastructure and the availability of facilities.
Expeditions typically last 45 to 60 days, including acclimatisation. Summit push varies: 12–16 hours (South Col) vs 16–20 hours (North Col).
Before booking Everest, you have to make sure with your logistics provider that the departure confirmation is in place, especially if you want to go to the North Col side in Tibet. Obtaining the Everest climbing permit from the North can be uncertain.
